Description: Up for sale here is this brand new rotary switch. This will work great as the speaker switch or power switch in the McIntosh MC2105, and MC2505. It is fairly similar to the old switch, but normally comes with a flattened round shaft (rather than a true "D" shaft), so I have modified it to have a D shaft so it the McIntosh knob will fit. If you would like to buy an unmodified switch and modify it yourself, I have that available here a bit cheaper than this listing. This switch is rated for 2.5A 125VAC, which is a hair less than the original switch, but it will still work great. When you install it, you will need to rotate the whole switch until it lines up properly with the on/off markings on the faceplate. This has a longer rotation than the original switch, so it will not line up perfectly with the faceplate marking, but it's not that bad. If you look at my pictures you can see what it looks like in both positions as a speaker switch. I did successfully install one of these in an MC2105, so I know it will fit fine and work well. Please note that this listing is just for the switch (with mounting nut/washer included). There is no knob or amplifier included. This has 6 terminals on the back. There are two sets of off/on terminals and one set of on/off terminals. The switch body measures about 28.5mm at the widest point. The shaft is 13mm long, not counting the threaded part, which adds another 8mm or so. Here is how to wire this as a speaker selector switch: There are two cloth wires and two pairs of rubber-coated wires going to the old speaker switch. When that switch is turned on, it connects one cloth wire to one pair of rubber-coated wires, for each channel. You can tell which wires go together from how close they are to each other. One cloth-covered wire can be connected to pin 10 on the new switch, and its pair of rubber wires goes to pin C. The other cloth wire goes to pin 4 and the other rubber wires go to pin A. Here is how to wire this as a power switch: Jump pin 4 to pin 10 and jump pin A to pin C, then attach one wire from the old power switch to pin 4 (or 10) and the other wire to pin A (or C). With the contacts bridged it will be good for 5A 125VAC, which is plenty. Installation will require a soldering iron, solder, needlenose pliers, wire cutters, and a flathead screwdriver. You will need to remove the amplifier's glass faceplate. There are three metal pieces on the switch--a nut, a lock washer, and a third washer underneath, that has a pin that locks into the switch. That will probably fall off at some point during installation. When you reinstall it, the pin goes right behind the number 4. If you install it a different way, the switch will not work properly. US shipping and handling is $5, and international is $18, no matter what quantity you buy. All my small parts are set up for combined shipping, so just use the "add to cart" feature and then check out all at once, and it will combine shipping. If you have any questions, please ask. Looking for more parts? I have power switches, feet, pushbuttons, top case screws, bottom screws, faceplate screws, white LED fuse lamps, blue LED fuse lamps, 6.3v bi-pin bulbs, 8v bi-pin bulbs, 12v bi-pin bulbs, wired 8v 60ma bulbs, new power cords, new main capacitors for the Marantz 1060/2230, wired Pioneer speaker plug replacements, new 630v yellow film capacitors at 13 different values, a large variety of transistors for vintage stereo repair, and more. Just use "add to cart" on everything you want and then check out for combined shipping.
Price: 40 USD
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
End Time: 2024-07-30T01:56:28.000Z
Shipping Cost: 5 USD
Product Images
Item Specifics
Restocking Fee: No
Return shipping will be paid by: Buyer
All returns accepted: Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within: 30 Days
Refund will be given as: Money Back
Return policy details:
Brand: Unbranded
Type: Switch
MPN: Does Not Apply
